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\f0\fs24 \cf0 Ask any two boaters what they like most about traveling the ICW and you're unlikely to get much, if any, agreement. We can all gripe agreeably about the downsides of the Ditch - long turns at the wheel, shoaling, brutal currents, inconsiderate boaters, but rarely, if ever, do you hear the upside about one of the most fascinating trips in America.\
Do we ever even think about it, beyond it being the purgatory we have to pass through to reach 'Sailing Paradise' - the Bahamas or Caribbean or for those northerly bound, Maine, or the North Channel of Lake Huron? Since sailing is (presumably) more about getting there and not the destination, I find this 'git 'er done' attitude about the ICW contradictory. Why aren't we enjoying the ICW more? Could it be we need to slow down and really look at where we are, what we're passing through? \
I believe that may be the case, and so, in no particular order, in the spirit of enjoying the moment, here are my eclectic choices of what I consider to be ten of the ICW's most interesting features, places or people.\
I'm sure you won't agree with all, or possibly even any, of them, but nothing's stopping you from sending a letter to the editor telling them how little I really know, is there? At least they'll know you read this article!\
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Belhaven, with its location far from anyplace mandates that most of us will stop there overnight. This is not a bad thing, as Belhaven gets the nod for the best sunsets and sunrises along the ICW. I know that Cond\'8e Nast has in the past noted the eastern shore of Lake Huron for the honor of the best sunsets in the world, and they are very good there. But, after having spent considerable time in Belhaven, I can only say that the sunsets and sunrises there are spectacular. And if you're not an early riser, sunrises such as in the photo accompanying this article are well worth losing some sleep over.\
In the category of bridgetenders/lockkeepers, the lockkeeper at Deep Creek Lock on the Dismal Swamp rises far above the rest. Where else will you be serenaded while locking through by someone playing the conch? As well, Rob is a pro. He's the only lockkeeper I've seen anywhere who carries a boathook to catch your lines, and who, with an honest smile, helps boaters into and through his domain.\
Some years back, Rob invited another singlehander and myself for Thanksgiving dinner, introducing us to his family, making us feel completely at home. The following day, he drove me to a marine store to purchase needed parts. For service above and beyond, I nominate Rob, knowing he'll get the votes of all who've met him.\
Laundromats might seem an odd category, but excepting those fortunate souls with watermakers and on-board laundry, we all need them - it's just that finding a good one isn't easy. I give you the laundromat behind the General Store in Beaufort NC as the best on the ICW. Clean, tidy, inexpensive, with new machines that give you lots of time for your quarters, this is the place to get cleaned up on the ICW. It isn't as 'boaty' as, say, the laundromat at the Beaufort Municipal Marina, but your whites are definitely whiter here - and who else but sailors would even consider discussing laundromats anyway?\
My next 'best' is going to cause some disagreement, not only because everyone will have their own favourite, but also because there are so many close seconds in this category: the 'most accommodating' transient marina. My personal favourite over the years has been Atlantic Seapath, in Wrightsville Beach, for several reasons. \
First of all, the staff is superb - friendly, welcoming, helpful and professional - and a special nod goes to Nicole here on all counts. You'll even find yourself welcomed in the dockside gams with local fishermen and boaters. Plus, there is no other location on the ICW I know of where a marina makes a courtesy car available to transients who are only fuelling up and not staying over. \
The venerable but monstrous purple Pontiac is sadly history, but there's now a clean and well-kept Honda to get you to groceries, the nearby marine stores, propane dealer, bank or hardware store. And since even locations such as the Beaufort Maritime Museum have ceased providing loaners for transients, this effort by Seapath is much more appreciated by those of us who've benefited. Thanks gang, we'll see you next trip south.\
Now most of us would have no trouble naming our own ICW's 'least friendly to transients' city, and I suspect that most of us would agree on which one it is, but I'm trying to stay upbeat here. So, my next choice is bound to be contentious; I'd almost rather discuss which anchor is best since we're more likely to agree on that topic. I give you, with fear and trembling, my choice for the ICW's friendliest city...Georgetown, SC.\
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The first time I arrived in Georgetown, SC. I asked a police officer where the post office was. He explained that it was several miles away from the waterfront and then, learning that I was on a boat, he drove me there and back to pick up my package. One of the few times I've found myself in the front seat of a police cruiser, but I digress. \
Another trip, coming through on Christmas Day, my crew and I were wandering the waterfront hoping to find an open restaurant. I asked a local fisherman off the boats if he knew of one and before you could say 'Kris Kringle', he had a fresh and tasty triggerfish from his catch in my hands, along with flour and corn meal to cook it up with, and all for just a heartfelt 'thank you'. \
The following day we stopped by the new boutique grocery store, Morsels, where we met the owners. They were pleased to serve us even though they weren't actually open for business, and indicated that they were hopeful that they could become a supply stop for transients, since there was no nearby grocery store. Given their broad range of wines, cheeses and other items, plus a good choice of staples and veggies and a soon to be available wireless internet, I have no doubt that they will make many friends amongst the cruising population.\
And then, my last trip through Georgetown, I had to retrieve a halyard at the top of the mast. With my intense dislike of heights, I was bemoaning the evil necessity at a local pub. No sooner had I spoken the words than the waitress offered to go up for me. Since that the only other person offering was a fellow sailor who outweighed her by a good eighty pounds, I felt it was worth the price of a few cold brews to take this fine offer. So, for answering the call above and beyond, I nominate Georgetown SC as the ICW's friendliest city.\
Like most of us, I try to do my own boat repairs, but sometimes you have to use the pros. My choice, provided I'm close enough and there is no water coming into the boat - at least at a rate the bilge pumps can't handle - is Eau Gallie Boat Works, in Melbourne FL. \
Owner and consummate Irishman Finnbarr Murphy is known far and wide for his unstinting honesty and a peculiar (amongst boat repair people) willingness to speak the usually unwelcome truth about your particular boat problem. You may not like what he has to say, but you will always know where you stand - or float as the case may be.\
He also stands behind his work, unlike far too many who serve transient boaters. In the very unlikely circumstance that your job wasn't done right the first time, it'll be corrected. For transients on the Ditch who, like myself, have been cheated by dishonest or incompetent tradespeople, that's a comforting thought.\
The category for the most intriguing individual on the ICW can only go to Richard (Dick) Jones (again with many close seconds), of Jones' Fruit Dock. Although he is closing on ninety years of age, Dick still ambles down to his dock each evening, often with fresh citrus as a gift, to collect his $10 dockage from transients stopping by.\
Dick is an ICW longtimer who has seen it all and isn't averse to talking about it, generally on the picnic bench at his dock over a cold brew. I've spent a couple of marvelous evenings listening to him and always eagerly anticipate my next return. \
Sure, the docks aren't the caliber of, say, Charleston's megadock, although they're far more colorful, and you won't get even 30 amp power, much less cable, but Dick is a reminder of a simpler, more honorable time. Like me, you'll cherish the memories of your layover at the Jones Indian River Fruit Docks, mile 945.7.\
The most charming waterfront you ask? That has to be a four way tie if I hope to avoid being lynched: St. Augustine, Georgetown SC., Charleston SC and Beaufort SC. Each has its enchantments, chief amongst them the stately old homes within easy walking distance of their waterfronts. \
Architecturally stunning St. Augustine is far more commercial than the others, Charleston far more 'gracious'; Beaufort an exciting mix of invigorating downtown waterfront renewal and 'old fashioned' charm and Georgetown, well, super friendly Georgetown is only quiet on the surface while behind the scenes, the downtown is re-inventing itself. It bears watching as a soon to be 'must see' destination. \
For those in the crowd yelling out "Savannah", yup, I agree, but it isn't technically on the ICW. Sorry!\
And finally, the loveliest single stretch of the ICW? Has to be the Waccamaw River, in South Carolina. Wild, lonely, lovely, secluded....all these words and more fail to describe the peace that most boaters feel while transiting this all too short section. \
I dislike the endless meandering of the South Carolina/Georgia ICW as much as anyone, but the Waccamaw makes it worth the aggravation. Tucked between Myrtle Beach's frantic commercialization and the oftentimes rugged Winyah Bay passage, the Waccamaw is proof that the trip's highlights often occur in the midst of it. I challenge you to leave the Waccamaw with a pulse rate much over comatose, it's that relaxing. \
And, as a free bonus for you, the Bucksport Marina on the Waccamaw sells the best homemade sausages on the entire ICW.\
Have a wonderful trip! I hope I've opened your eyes to enjoying it even more. And don't forget, SAIL Magazine would love to hear about your own 'ten best'!}