Sail Gypsy Wind

The Travels, Trials and Tribulations...

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Leaving Georgetown, one can head offshore, to the east of the Jumentos, or sail inside the Jumentos in protected waters. I've chosen the inside route as defined in the Explorer Charts for several reasons: for ease and safety, as I'm singlehanding now; to explore; and because many boaters will be more at ease with this route.
And, apparently, the lobster fishing is superlative here, which is reason enough on its own.
The distances are - to Ragged
Islands, about 60 miles and from there to Puerto de Vida, another 60 miles.
There is a marina in Puerto de Vida where I'll stay the first evening.
From Puerto de Vida, I'll be cruising west along the coast as far as Marina Hemingway, before heading north and back to Florida.
Why this particular route? First of all, it's all fairly easy sailing with no really long runs - the only deep water run is from Ragged Island to Porto de Vida. Secondly, it maximizes the sightseeing, although there is not much to be seen in the Jumentos. More on that later...
Both wind and currents along the Cuban coast favour a westerly passage, and Porto de Vida is the first port in which one can check in on this coast - Baracoa was apparently a check in at one time, but no longer. On the other hand, Baracoa is about half again as far from Ragged Is. as Puerto de Vida and against the wind, so this may be a good thing. If one were doing the southern coast, the check in would be Santiago de Cuba, well around the eastern tip of Cuba.
For those wanting a faster trip or with a shorter weather window, the offshore route straight down from Long Is. at about 120 miles is the way to go.
And, of course, the day before my planned leavetaking, Chris Parker predicts 20-30 k NNE winds about the time I'd be going over. Now I have to figure out where to duck in and wait out this blow. Wouldn't you just know it?
....well, it's a week and a half later. The winds have finally settled down, and I'm in Long Island, the first step to the Jumentos. From here, it's 40 miles to Water Cay, then another jump down to Ragged Island before the offshore run to Porto de Vida.
For specific route suggestions, click here.

Long Island: Long island has been a pleasant surprise. An excellent harbour with good holding and protection, plus an excellent resort at its head, and superb provisioning just a few minute’s walk down the highway – and much cheaper than Georgetown. I would highly recommend provisioning here for produce and other last minute items here before heading further south. Also, fuel is available at the best prices I’ve seen yet in the Bahamas and with a dock with five feet at MLW, meaning that you won’t have to jug diesel out. Water however, is another matter, being in short supply. Tank up in Georgetown since it’s free there, although you’ll likely want to spend five bucks on a shower at the resort. After months in the Bahamas with the last shower at Sampson Cay some time ago, the luxury of a shower on land is incredible.
A few words about Long Island Breezes Resort are in order here. The owners recognize that their future will depend heavily on transient cruisers and to this end welcome them heartily. They conduct an 8:30 net – one gets to sleep in a little here – and the resort’s facilities are open to cruisers, provided they spend a few dollars. Wireless internet is free with any purchase – the restaurant food is excellent and the facilities are at the very top of what I’ve seen in the Bahamas. Mike and Jackie have done an excellent job.
Plus, there’s a pool, allowing you to luxuriate in exquisite, cool fresh water. After months in the islands, this has to be experienced to be believed.
There is currently a lovely cottage available for guests, with plans to build four motel style units. As well, a dock with two 100’ piers is planned. In April of 2009, there was only a rudimentary dinghy dock. There are also plans to build two retail buildings, with apartments above them.
For those with some cash looking for a home, the owners, Jackie and Mike, are looking for investors. While I’m not savvy enough to recommend an investment of this sort, I will say that there are two major attractions to this deal: all of the permissions for the planned expansion are in place and, the entire property is mortgage free. Personally, I believe that as cruisers visit the Jumentos more frequently – as they have been ever since Explorer Charts put out their inside route to Ragged Island, Long Island Breezes Resort is well placed to serve them. They’re sort of like the sign on the desert highway – ‘last stop for gas’, except that Long Island is the last place for anything on this run.

A major problem today: my computer screen went black and it appears that it is going to have to go to the shop. The problem of course is that there is no shop here – and even if there were, I can’t wait around for it to be sent out and returned. I spent most of the day panicking over this, trying in vain to get a glimmer of light on the screen. At wit’s end, I pulled out my old iBook, which has a horrendous crack across the screen as you can see – but it works just fine and I’ll be able to keep my notes and update the site once I get back to the US – that’s because I anticipate little or no internet access in Cuba and my web design program does not work on the iBook.
With some luck, I may get the new computer resuscitated – one of the other cruiser’s sons is a Mac technician and they are in touch with him on iChat. I’ll try that route tomorrow. Also, it’s possible that the problem is moisture gumming up the works – I plan to bake the computer inside a plastic bag in the sun, with rice as a hydrophilic in the bag to absorb moisture. Boy, do I wish I had those little packets of moisture absorbent material that I always throw out when I get new electronics and such. Wait, who am I kidding…new electronics? Who'd keep eBay in existence if not cruisers looking for cheap gear?
All kidding aside however, here’s a tip for cruisers, as I’m not the only person who has suffered this problem. Keep your computer in a protected bag, with some sort of moisture absorbent material in that bag, even on board your big boat – it’s just as humid there as anywhere. When you’re in the dinghy, wrap it up in several layers of protective plastic, or better yet, purchase a Pelican or Otter Box to protect it – Otter Box is the cheaper of the two. I have several Otter Boxes but none sized for my laptop. That’s going to change very soon.

Good news! John, with some assistance via iChat from his son the Mac guru, was able to repair this computer. Turns out it was nothing more than a chip that, on this model, is prone to come loose. A couple pieces of thick double faced sticky tape and the problem was solved. So...back online.

Met Aubrey and Judy from Veleda IV. That name will ring a bell for Canadian readers of GAM, as they write the ongoing saga of their travels, Pearls from the Log of Veleda IV. They've just returned from Cuba and I spent some time last night with them getting additional info on cruising there. A most worthwhile session, which ended with a beer back at their boat, plus a copy of a Spanish-English dictionary - something that will see extensive use I suspect.